Return to Rajasthan, and goodbye to Gujarat.

Friday 11^th July 2014

This last entry is long overdue, and I’ve now been happily settled back into life here in the Netherlands for almost four weeks. Nonetheless, I’m not one to leave something incomplete, so here’s a brief (really, very brief) account of my last couple of weeks in India.

   I left Delhi by train and headed far west into the Thar Desert and Jaisalmer. It was a very long journey: eighteen hours to be precise. However, I had managed to get a first class ticket, and enjoyed the company of a lovely Dutch couple in my compartment for the duration of the trip. Arriving in Jaisalmer was surprisingly calm, despite the oppressive heat (around 50°C). The city of Jaisalmer is dominated by its huge fort, which rises majestically out of the desert landscape. My hotel was actually inside the fort, which was of course rather magical. The city itself was largely deserted during my stay, it being the middle of summer and extra-low tourist season. After the sheer manic nature of Delhi and Agra, this came as somewhat of a relief.

   Jaisalmer is relatively small, and its main attractions (or at least the only ones bearable in the summer heat) are three beautiful havelis, and the city palace. The Patwa Ni Haveli was by far the most impressive, with its multitude of beautiful carved balconies and intricately crafted decorations. As is seemingly standard with many Indian heritage sites though, the audio tour was a little disappointing.

Patwa Ni Haveli.

Patwa Ni Haveli.

   The same can be said for the city palace, although its majesty more than makes up for the poor quality of the visit experience. Built in 1156 by the Bhati Rajput ruler Jaisal, it boasts a rich and fascinating heritage. Nights in Jaisalmer brought some welcome relief from the heat, and gave rise to the wonderful spectacle of (probably) thousands of bats flying above the fort, gliding on the currents of warm air rising from the stones.

   From Jaisalmer I moved on again by train to Jodhpur (only 5 hours this time), ‘the Blue City’. This train journey featured rats, actually on the train. Such fun... 

Another train: leaving Jaisalmer.

In Jodhpur, I stayed in a charming little hotel near the fort. Jodhpur’s fort is often considered to be one of the finest in India, and I must admit, that I was impressed – even the audio tour was good (apart from a few contradictions in its content). Beyond the Mehrangarh Fort, there isn’t really too much to see in Jodhpur, and with its unpleasantly narrow, congested and noisy streets, and the oppressive heat, hardly a delight to explore. It was therefore just a few days in which I was able to relax and begin to prepare myself for coming home.

View of Jodhpur fort from my hotel.

   Nonetheless, the Mehrangarh Fort is certainly impressive – even the visitor experience wasn’t too shabby, including an excellent audio tour, well-preserved museums and interiors, and even a decent gift shop! Rudyard Kipling wrote in 1899 about the fort: "The work of angels, fairies and giants . . . he who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings; it as though he walked through mountain gorges . . ." and I am certainly inclined to agree with his words. 

Mehrangarh Fort.

Mehrangarh Fort.

The looming 15th-century edifice to Rajput valour has walls that soar like sheer cliffs 120m high, literally dwarfing the city at its base, and a proud history of never having fallen to its many invaders. The interior is a sumptuous series of palaces, museums, which are both beautiful and in places a little quirky, including a ceiling decorated with multicoloured baubles. 

Mehrangarh Fort.

View over Jodhpur from the Mehrangarh Fort. 

   After a few days of drowning in my own sweat and sitting too close to an air conditioner in Jodhpur, one final train whisked me (well, it took 10 hours) back to Ahmedabad, for a couple of truly delightful days catching up with friends, eating some delicious Gujarati food (including ice cream) and saying my goodbyes. I was also fortunate enough to be invited to the inauguration of Saath’s Meghdhanush initiative, which works towards raising awareness about and ending child labour. I really look forward to seeing this inspirational programme grow and make an impact in the coming years.

   And so, this entry and therefore the blog must come to an end. Apologies if this last post has been a little short and lacklustre, but there really wasn’t too much to say about my last couple of weeks, apart from how special my last few days in Ahmedabad were, and how much I’d like to thank everyone who made my time in India so memorable. I really look forward to seeing you all again some time in the future!

   As and when I finish my thesis, I’ll post some kind of review or summary of my research here, and any final thoughts or reflections I have on my time in India. Until then, all that’s left to say is my most sincere thanks to you all for taking the time to read this, and all of my other ramblings over these past few months!